A new edition of a cult photo book traces how a 1980s New York gang built an identity around Ralph Lauren clothing – and transformed the preppy brand into hip-hop streetwear. (FT)
What’s Driving Supreme’s Quiet Comeback
Just a few years ago, commentators were declaring the brand was past its peak amid multiple ownership changes and a broader streetwear cooldown. Today, consumer tracking metrics show domestic sales and youth market share are rebounding strongly. (BoF)
How Palace Kept Its Cool (Vogue Business)
Man’s Not Hot
The puffer jacket’s unbreakable grip on streetwear (032c)
ATP Merch Gets the Love It Deserves
Vicente Muñoz of Pro Shop NYC joins Danish brand Palmes to dig through five decades of ATP Tour logos, tees and ephemera, then turn them into something contemporary. (BAGEL)
Inside Graphite, a Shoppable, Rare Tennis Apparel Archive
We sat down with Bryson Malone, the prominent photographer who deals vintage tennis gear on the side. (InsideHook)
When Men Want to Look Sexy in a Suit, They Go See Him
Nicolas Gabard, the founder of the Parisian label Husbands, has found that many share his love of swooping lapels and high-waisted trousers. (NYT)
What Gangster Clothing Tells Us About Being Too Flash (Permanent Style)
Margaret Howell’s Simple Trick to Surviving 50 Years of Fashion
Turns out, by ignoring trend in favour of quality make and material, you end up with timeless stuff. (Highsnobiety)
Model’s Own: The Dashwood Books Manager Swears by Her Wooden Pillow
Miwa Susuda tells us all about her French film style icon, her beloved baggy Nanamica jeans, and the Japanese fashion magazines she bought growing up. (Highsnobiety)
Can You Sell Good Taste?
Minor Genius asks Theo from PSYCHE Olive Oil: Uncle Ralph, the art-book-to-CPG pipeline, counterfeit sophistication (aka luxury mid), and how to sell something you can’t taste through, well, taste. (Minor Genius)
The Correct Bookshelf
Save this list of very good décor books. (For Scale)
The Case for Gatekeepers
The democracy of social media tore down the gates, and now the castle is overrun with Philistines. (Esquire)
A Sale Brings New-Media Tastemakers Into the Hollywood Fold
With the purchase of Brigade, a small talent firm, Substack writers and podcast hosts are now managed by the same company as movie stars. (NYT)
Gary Fisketjon Has Died. He Edited Ellis, Tartt, McInerney and McCarthy
When Restaurant Ads Were Worth Framing
A champion of slow, methodical editing and long working relationships with writers, he was regarded as one of the best of his generation. He was 72. (NYT)
Salon, Internet’s Oldest General Interest Publication, Shuts Down After 31 Years
Website known for politics, arts and culture coverage announces closure just weeks before anniversary. (The Guardian)
Before the Internet, New York restaurants built names with print advertising – often with a conceptual bent. The designers, editors, and owners who defined that era look back on the heyday of the restaurant ad. (Caper)
“It Gave Me a Lot of Anxiety”: Alex Katz on Sharing the Room With Matisse
At 99, the American painter confronts his lifelong reverence for the modern French master in a rare double billing at the Matisse Museum. (NYT)
Kehinde Wiley in the Vortex
The artist, who has been facing sexual misconduct allegations, became a single father in May and returns to the gallery world this week with a new show, What the Light Becomes. (NYT)
The Geezer of Graffiti Art, Barry McGee, Goes ‘Another Round’ in Los Angeles
From train yards to Jeffrey Deitch, a luminary of street art cuts “another hole in the fence” bringing his friends to his new exhibition. (NYT)
Spike Lee for Michael Jackson, Paul Schrader for Bob Dylan, the first rap song in the history of the Hungarian People’s Republic – revolt is the watchword from a painter of impeccable cool. (Spike)
DJs After All: How Daft Punk’s Lost 1997 Mix Illuminates Their Dancefloor Roots
A recently unearthed DJ mix by Daft Punk, recorded for Ralph Lawson’s KISS FM show in 1997, has reignited interest in this early period of the iconic duo’s history. Before they were The Robots, and before their live shows became arena-sized spectacles, Daft Punk were DJs. Sort of. (DJ Mag)
Daine’s Jungian Pop Music (Stereogum)
Part art-world experiment, part anything-goes dance-punk fever dream, London’s buzziest four-piece, RIP Magic, are turning puckish sonic pranks, DIY instincts and a shared appetite for the unexpected into a world entirely of their own making. (Crack)