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The End of Merch

Graphic tees, dad hats, tote bags and coffee mugs ruled the fashion universe for the better part of a decade. But suddenly, once-highly coveted merch doesn’t hit like it used to. From Yeezus to the Eras Tour, what’s behind the rise and fall of wearing your interests on your sleeve? (GQ)

A Conversation With Chris Echevarria, Founder of Blackstock & Weber

We chat with Chris about the J.Crew Liquor Store days, Scott Sternberg's inspiration, his dream collabs, how to develop good taste, why retail is the highest art form, and more. (Sprezza)

Erik Foss

In a new interview, longtime Apartamento contributor Anne Hanavan talks with Erik about his journey to the New York art world, his iconic nightclub, Lit Lounge, and his advice to upcoming artists. (Apartamento)

Buck Ellison’s Probing Portrait of White American Privilege

As his new book is published by IDEA, Buck Ellison talks about looking at the “security and violence of whiteness” through photography. (AnOther)

Audio Erotica: The Graphic Design of Rare Vintage Hi-Fi Brochures

Jonny Trunk has been collaborating on a series of graphic design-led books with FUEL publishing for almost 20 years. The latest - titled Audio Erotica - sees the London-based writer, broadcaster, DJ, and Trunk Records label boss collate some of strangest and most significant period hi-fi brochures of the last 75 years. (DJ Mag)

How Beastie Boys’ Ill Communication Set a Benchmark for ‘90s Eclecticism

The release of Beastie Boys’ fourth album on 31st May 1994 signalled a new era not just for the New York trio, but for music at large. Fusing sampladelic hip-hop, punk and unruly rap rock with brazen stylistic experiments, it set a refreshingly eclectic tone after a decade of genre tribalism, and altered perceptions of the group on both sides of the Atlantic.

(DJ Mag)

Ken Carson Goes Global

The rapper is having his biggest year to date, with a headlining world tour beginning this summer. (NYLON)

RA.938: Actress

100 percent original, unreleased Actress. (Resident Advisor)

Going Behind the Scenes of Popcast (Deluxe)

The weekly culture roundup show, hosted by Jon Caramanica and Joe Coscarelli, celebrates its first anniversary on May 31. (NYT)

The Cult of “Cult of...”

A try-hard analysis of skateboarding's fanpage culture. (SOLO)

Everyone’s Disrupting and It’s Exhausting

Millennial-bait money-grab groceries, unlinkable objects with imperfect souls, and more about living & eating well from Alison Roman.

(Blackbird Spyplane)

Moods May 2024 (Moodmail)

MAY FLOWERS

Peony study by Marcus McDonald, inspired by the “Flowers and Plants” folders of the NYPL Picture Collection.

PETER SCHLESINGER

Images from Peter Schlesinger: A Photographic Memory: 1968 - 1989 at Maison Kitsuné Perry-Archives & Gallery, 2022. More information here.

THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT

Secret Snow photographed by Ryan McGinley for IRAK's Spring/Summer 24 collection.

Listen to an excellent interview with IRAK founder Kunle Martins on the Stupid Things For Love podcast with Scott Campbell here.

THEY HATE CHANGE MIX

Sunday Mix by They Hate Change for Crack magazine. Check it out here.

LINKED UP 073

A Grand (Still) Don’t Come for Free: A Week With The Streets' Sophomore Album, 20 Years On

Telling an age-old tale of hometown love, hedonism and heartbreak, The Streets’ A Grand Don’t Come For Free wove the minutiae of British life into a concept album that felt like a film score, distilling big feelings into an immersive story anyone could step into. On its 20th anniversary, writer and Locked On Records’ Creative Lead Bailey Slater jumps in, spending a week delving into its intricacies whilst listening on repeat. (Crack)

Ghostly at 25: Key Moments From the Label’s First Quarter Century

We asked 11 artists, collaborators, and associates of the influential leftfield label to talk about their favourite records, merch, and memories in honour of its milestone anniversary. (The FADER)

Photographs of Hip-Hop’s ‘Greatest Day’ Go on View at New York’s City Hall

The installation goes behind the scenes of Gordon Parks' iconic photograph, ‘A Great Day in Hip Hop’. (Artnet)

Lil Silva on Making Space for Fluidity and Unfiltered Self-Expression

In his own words, UK funky pioneer turned genre-hopping DJ, producer and performer Lil Silva recalls the moment he decided to provide a platform for artists to get weird. (Crack)

Talking in the Back Alley With bar italia

bar italia are a band from London. That’s all they feel you need to know about them, and, I mean, fair enough. (Monster Children)

I Took Mushrooms at a Death Grips Show. It Might Have Cured My ADHD

Understanding what happened to my brain after a psilocybin experience - and what it means for psychedelics in America. (Esquire)

I Feel Like One of G-d’s Favourite Children

Elite-tier NYC recon will do that to you! (Blackbird Spyplane)

Inside Corteiz’s Frenzied Brooklyn Denim Exchange

The London streetwear label and its magnetic leader Clint have built a millions-strong cult following across the globe. At the brand’s latest pop-up in New York, hundreds came to catch a glimpse of the tracksuit-peddling folk hero - and take home a free pair of jeans. (GQ)

Is Evan Kinori Menswear’s Favourite Cult Designer?

At a party celebrating Kinori’s furniture launch, the pied piper of artisanal garments proves it doesn’t take flashy clothes to generate big-time buzz.

(GQ)

Naughty by Dominic Marley

Naughty is a new book of photos by Dominic Marley. Find out more about what makes up this book backed up by some musings from Dominic Marley himself about the process of making it, and his relationship with the body of work it contains… (Slam City Skates)

BLONDEY

Blondey McCoy photographed by Alex Pires, London, 2022.

PIGEON-WISE

ARENA HOMME+

Jon Gries, photographed at his home in Los Angeles by Max Farago, in the Raso Gommato jacket from Stone Island’s Spring Summer 1988 collection.

The new Arena Homme+ features a 30 page portfolio of the Stone Island Archive, photographed during its exhibition in Los Angeles in February 2024. More here.

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Why Members-Only Clubs Are Everywhere Right Now

A new wave of private restaurants, workspaces, wellness centers, and nightclubs has taken New York City by storm. Emily Sundberg gets inside most of them - and helps us understand why so many young New Yorkers are gleefully shelling out membership dues. (GQ)

Five Fits With: Cale Darrell, Whose Love of Vintage Clothing Is Downright Infectious

The guy behind Chicago's excellent shop, Good Form, fills us in on his personal style. (Esquire)

Los Angeles With Karolyn Pho

In sunny Glendale with the stylist Karolyn Pho. (Drake's)

Hockney’s California Dream

How David Hockney changed the way we view the sunshine and swimming pools of Los Angeles. (Drake's)

Hotel Stationery Is His Canvas

The viral doodles of artist Michael McGregor. (FT)

A Brief History of Bubble Letters

Trace the niche genre of typography from notebook doodles to graffiti throw-ups, gummy branding to experimental architecture. (Source Type)

An Oral History of Tompkins Square Park

An oral history of one of New York's most famous skate spots, TF. (Jenkem)

Alain Levitt on New Book, New York: 2000-2005

Early-2000s New York was a golden era. (Monster Children)

A Grand Don’t Come For Free Turns 20 (Stereogum)

9 Artists, Creatives and The Streets Collaborators on the Legacy of A Grand Don’t Come For Free

Celebrated for its frank and evocative lyricism, The Streets’ sophomore album, A Grand Don’t Come For Free, captured a life of misadventure and mundanity. On its 20th anniversary, we asked 9 artists, creatives and collaborators about the record’s initial impact and why it still resonates today. (Crack)

Retrospective: Modern Vampires of the City Ushered in a New Era for Vampire Weekend

With their ornamental whimsy taking a backseat to more sombre musings on death and religious disillusionment, Modern Vampires of the City 

ushered in a new era for Vampire Weekend. (Crack)

Tom Krell of How to Dress Well Is Pop Music’s Resident Philosopher (Interview)

You Are Not a Commercial for Yourself

A profound Spyplane reckoning. (Blackbird Spyplane)

067 Genius Opinions: Sami Reiss (SNAKE)

I've always wanted to "get into furniture" so I reached out to one of the web's freshest and most accessible voices in design to show me (and you) the ropes. (Minor Genius)

HYBRID MOMENTS

Scott Campbell's title design for Cheryl Dunn's documentary Moments Like This Never Last, 2020. Watch here.

ESPO

Queens Blvd, late 90s. Photographed by Cheryl Dunn.

THE WAR REPORT

WTF Is Going on in Hip-Hop?!

37 thoughts on what’s happening right now in rap. (Backseat Freestyle)

The Kendrick Lamar/Drake Beef, Explained

Kendrick and Drake diss each other multiple times in one weekend, A.I. shenanigans, shots fired at and from Future, Metro Boomin, Rick Ross, Weeknd, and more in a new chapter in rap geopolitics. (GQ)

Kendrick Lamar vs. Drake Beef Goes Nuclear: What to Know

The two rappers had circled one another for more than a decade, but their attacks turned relentless and very personal in a slew of tracks released over the weekend. (NYT)

What Happens Next for Kendrick Lamar and Drake? Let’s Discuss.

After a week of bitter diss tracks, a conversation about how the rap battle played out for the chart-topping rappers and how their personas and careers might be affected. (NYT)

The Greatest Diss Tracks of All Time, Ranked

As the dust settles on the Kendrick and Drake beef, we couldn’t help but ask: What’s the best diss record in rap history? ‘Hit ’Em Up’? ‘The Bridge Is Over’? ‘Not Like Us’?!?! We’re counting them down, from Rick Ross to LL Cool J to 50 Cent and more. (The Ringer)

LINKED UP 071

Rinse FM at 30: An Oral History of the Notorious London Radio Station

From illegal pirate radio to one of the most important musical institutions in the UK, we look back at some of Rinse FM’s key moments. (Dazed)

Turning Classic Skate Soundtracks Into an NTS Radio Show

Gianluca Quagliano’s episodes, centred around different skate themes, give you a musical deep dive found nowhere else. (Jenkem)

Youth Crew

Long live HxC and hanging out. (Catchdubs)

Hana Vu, the L.A. Singer Making Sad Music Feel Alive

Following the release of her sophomore album Romanticism, we had a quickfire conversation with the musician about aliens, memes, and why she has “eternal war” in her heart. (Dazed)

Dehd Centres Community on Their Road to Success

Dehd tells Laura David how intuition and human connection helped the Chicago trio create their fifth album Poetry. (The Line of Best Fit)

In the Bus With bar italia

bar italia is officially in the limelight, but their sound remains in the dark as ever. We join the British band on tour - over shitty reception - not to find out more about their sound or start, but to explore the nothingness sandwiched between the stage and the van, the lighthearted and serious, and any cunnilingus (they don't discriminate). (office)

"People Think It’s Just for Emo or Gothic Kids": The Kenyan Metalhead Leading a New Wave of African Rock 

Martin Kanja, AKA Lord Spikeheart, covers everything from colonialism to his grandmother in music that mixes African culture with metal. He hopes to help more artists like him break through. (The Guardian)

What’s It Like to Be T-Pain Now?

At home in Atlanta and on the Coachella circuit with the Auto-Tune auteur, who embraced his inner geek and found he's more beloved than ever.

(Billboard)

ESG's Infinite Influence: How the South Bronx Sisters Shaped Hip-Hop and House

When the South Bronx dance-punk outfit ESG released their Martin Hannett-produced debut EP in 1981, they had no idea how pivotal their stripped-back, funk-fueled sound would be on the evolution of hip-hop and house music: ‘UFO’ has been sampled over 500 times; ‘Moody’ was a staple in Larry Levan’s Paradise Garage sets. Four decades later, Daniel Dylan Wray tells their story. (DJ Mag)

Photos of Keith Haring’s Unparalleled Cultural Milieu in NYC (Dazed)

Exploring Irving Penn’s Subversive Approach to Photography

A new exhibition showcases the artist’s revolutionary seven-decade career, including groundbreaking series “The Incredibles”. (Huck)

Half a Century of American Culture Through the Lens of One Photographer

James Hamilton’s career conveniently mirrors the changing fortunes of journalism as an industry. (Hyperallergic)

Tremaine Emory Refuses to Hide the Scars

Streetwear’s Black history raconteur survived Kanye, Supreme and a near-death experience. But can he survive the internet? (NYT)

A Party for the Haters

The writers behind Hate Reads, a pop-up newsletter for airing grievances and pet peeves, got up on their soap boxes. (NYT)

No. 36: Cobey Arner

Hotel Costes mixes, Kings of Leon's live performances, a Dallas Cowboys T-Shirt, the Plum Blossom incense and Souen. (Affection Archives)

HARI NEF FOR APARTMENTO

Hari Nef photographed by Grace Ahlbom for the latest issue of Apartmento magazine. Read the full interview here.

THERE’S NO BUSINESS LIKE SNOW BUSINESS

Clipse wearing their infamous tagline in Mass Appeal magazine, 2006.

(Via Damp Magazines)

BUCK ELLISON

Installation images from Buck Ellison's exhibition Slip Lead, Sweden, 2021.

LEON ZHAN

New work by Leon Zhan as part of his exhibition Labyrinths. More here.